Technical
I feel a pulsation or vibration in my brake pedal every time I stop. But the brakes seem to work fine. Is anything wrong?
Last modified on 2011-12-05 10:44:00 GMT. 0 comments. Top.
This is a response to the article written and posted on Yahoo with the above title.
Yes something is wrong but the Yahoo article does not help you at all and will only prolong your troubles.
This article in my opinion as a brake engineer of 35 years experience is completely wrong and misleading.
It skates around the issue using terminology that is simply wrong for brake such as “Warpage” (not even English) and misleads drivers. It talks about incorrect wheel nut torque as a cause for warping which is completely wrong, distortion maybe but the word warping is misused again here.
The truth about the issue of brake vibration and how to solve it without replacing your rotors is found here
http://www.ebcbrakes.com/automotive/solve_brake_vibration.shtml
The real facts lie in the above linked article and we suggest you read this and follow the recommendations because if you do what the Yahoo article says and rush out and spend $200 on new rotors, you are only delaying the inevitable and wasting funds
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Best Brakes for Racing choose from huge selection of quality brake pads and rotors from the worlds number one brand EBC Brakes.
Last modified on 2011-10-17 08:54:11 GMT. 0 comments. Top.
See our brake selector chart here to make the ideal selection for your car or motorcycle for fast street,trackday and get the best brakes for racing with a performance guarantee.
EBC Brakes is a privately owned British manufacturer with its own R and D facilities and produces the largest range of brakes in the world for stock and aftermarket race calipers and many race drivers or motorcycle racers claim these to be the best brakes for racing with many testimonials shown here in the EBC Hall of Fame.
Racing is a totally different environment than street use and temperatures can shoot way over a thousand degrees, see this performance curve of the new EBC Bluestuff NDX to see what these pads do under head and load or the new EBC Orangestuff performance curve done on a race track simulation dyno.
If you want the best brakes for racing your calipers have to also be in good condition, this link explains what happens if your calipers bind or seize. You also need to make sure that your Brake fluid is in decent condition and has not deteriorated and does not contain water which soaks into brake fluids after years of use and exposure to the weather. See this link to review the EBC Brakes range of brake fluid testers and brake bleeding equipment.
Also make sure your discs or rotors are spotless clean using the new EBC Cleanstuff Brake cleaner shown here.
Follow the recommendations on the EBC Brakes site for all information to make sure you have the best brakes for racing and can make it to the podium next time out.
Racing Motorcycles has been the foundation of EBC Brakes for over 35 years with literally hundreds of motorcycle racers counting on the quality of EBC products for generations. Still now EBC Brakes has a massive privateer following who use its new 2012 formula GPFA full race sintered pads which combined with the new German mill rolled and specially heat treated steels used on the EBC X and XC rotors provide you with the best brakes for racing on your motorcycle.
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How to bed in new brake pads by EBC Brakes on cars although this applies to all brands of pads being used for Track-day and race use.
Last modified on 2011-07-11 13:10:27 GMT. 0 comments. Top.
A separate article for bedding in motorcycle brakes can be seen here:
BEDDING IN NEW MOTORCYCLE BRAKE PADS AND ROTORS
Bedding in new brakes is extremely important especially if you are using your vehicle for performance use on a track event.
First remember the harder or longer lasting a pad is the longer the geometric bedding process will take. By Geometric we mean making the pads sit flat or seat on a full width contact against the rotors. No matter how flat your rotors look, there are always misalignment issues with calipers, pads and rotors when installing new pads.
Also if your rotors have not been turned or are not completely new, no matter how nice they look there will be a hollow patch in the rotor and possibly minor ribs on the edges of the rotors developed from prior driving.
The picture below shows a rotor where the pads are not completely bedded and the contact band in blue is typical of a pad only contacting on a small area. Until this blue band is ALL THE WAY ACROSS THE ROTOR the pads are not ready for full performance or race use. If you can do this pre bedding OFF the track it is ideal to minimise loss of track time.
Once bedded geometrically and full width contact band is evident (can take anything up to 300 miles), give the brakes a workout along these lines.
1) Brake firmly on a safe road area where it is safe to do so from 70 to 30 MPH 10 times in succession.
(The brakes may smell hot and some smoke may even be seen from the wheels and some vibration may occur. This is simply the pads telling you that they cannot hold on the disc as they are not fully bedded in and contact is not sufficient.The grab and release action causes vibration. It SHOULD go away when bedding is complete and if it doesn’t you may have steering geometry issues and should read this page…
2) Do not during the bedding process bring the car to a complete rest and park it unless in an emergency, try to keep the wheels turning if only slowly. Parking when rotors very hot would damage both the rotors and pads due to heat soak.
3) Allow the brake to cool down with a gentle drive and then completely cool to touch cold.
4) Repeat the procedure under 1) again.
The brake pedal should have become firmer and the brakes more responsive.
5) Drive the car for up to 50 miles braking normally to get rid of any blue marks or hot spot.
On the track, first time out brake WELL AHEAD of normal braking markers and gradually assess braking points.
Gradually extend your braking markers as you feel more confident that the brakes are working well.
6) Inspect the pads for heavy surface cracks and wear every 20-30 laps and especially before driving home after a hard session on the track.
Hope this helps guys!
HERE IS ANOTHER ARTICLE WORTH READING:
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How to service motorcycle brake pads and safety advice
Last modified on 2011-01-18 16:08:43 GMT. 0 comments. Top.
IMPORTANT SAFETY WARNINGS
WARNING
Brakes are a MAJOR SAFETY CRITICAL PART of your Motorcycle/ATV. DO NOT ATTEMPT Service or replacement unless you are a QUALIFIED MECHANIC and always follow machine manufacturers installation procedure. Pads must be installed with friction material against disc rotor and metal backing plate towards piston. When fitting pads do not contaminate friction surface with fluids, oils or grease which reduce brake efficiency and may even cause total loss of brake. Ensure caliper mechanism is clean and operating freely before assembly. Severely scored or distorted rotors must be replaced or skimmed. Observe manufacturers specifications for minimum rotor thickness. BRAKE PERFORMANCE will be SEVERELY REDUCED by using new pads on scored or distorted rotors. (Consult dealer). Test ride bike carefully after fitting new pads to acquaint yourself with brake performance. Friction levels (stopping power) may be slightly different to previous/original pads, and riders need to familiarise themselves with stopping distances and brake lever pressures needed to stop safely in both dry and wet conditions after fitting new pads. Worn brake pads cause reduction or even complete loss of braking. Be sure to tell your Dealer what type of riding you require this product for and ask if the correct grade of material has been supplied for those conditions.
BREAK IN/BED IN TIMES (IN STREET USE)
Pads need a minimum of 250 miles regular urban use where brakes are used frequently (not highway cruising) to allow pads to mate with worn (or new) rotors. During this time brake performance WILL BE LESS EFFECTIVE especially if brake rotors are scored or distorted. Ride Motorcycles carefully in low traffic areas at lower speeds during bed in period until 90% contact area achieved between pads and rotors. Allow extra stopping distance until brakes are fully bedded. If you are replacing pads for another person be sure to warn the rider of this potential hazard.
IMPORTANT:
Inspect pads before each ride for wear conditions. Do not ride motorcycle if pads are worn so that friction material is below 2mm or one eighth of an inch in thickness above the steel backing plate. Consult professional mechanic if you are not completely aware of how to check for worn pads. NO WARRANTY exists when this product is used in RACING COMPETITION, or OFF ROAD USE. Riders must satisfy themselves as to suitability of the product for their own riding requirements and conditions. Every 12 months or 5000 miles riding in street use, or after EVERY RACE in off road use REMOVE PADS and inspect for corrosion and wear and service calipers and sliders. Inspect pads for cracks around edges which can cause edge lifting and friction material de-bond and TOTAL LOSS OF BRAKES or SEIZURE of brakes. Riding in wet and muddy conditions exaggerates this problem. Never ride in wet and muddy conditions and park bike without cleaning and DRYING brakes carefully to avoid internal parts corrosion. Replace organic brake pads if any signs of EDGE LIFTING occurs at the left and right edges of the pad compact close to the steel backing plate. Send photos to our tech department for help if in doubt, email biketechnical@ebcbrakesuk.com
EBC also sell Quality Clutch Kits, Brake Shoes and Rotors for motorcycles and ATV’s. Ask at your nearest EBC Dealer.
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Pro Cut Lathe Customer Feedback
Last modified on 2010-05-06 12:18:46 GMT. 0 comments. Top.
Several months ago you and I had numerous conversations regarding the brake rotors for my 2006 Chevrolet Impala. I ended up, with your support, getting the rotors cut at a Chevrolet Dealer in Florida to solve my problem.
Since having the Pro-Cut lathe work done, I have experienced no problems.
Thank you for your help!Jim G
Visit the EBC Brakes site to read more about how to correct brake vibration with a Pro-Cut lathe. Click the link below:
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Brake Vibration or Rotor Shimmying or Steering wheel shakes
All motor vehicle brakes can suffer this at some time in their life and brake vibration can occur for a number of reasons. Some cars have rotors machined to match the car on production lines and any replacement rotor will not run true unless machined once again ON THAT CAR. There is a great Company who make these On Car Brake lathes called Pro-Cut and a list of their locations in the USA is available on this link.
Then there are vehicles which suffer rotor vibration or steering wheel shakes after the car has been kerbed, often people find this vibration so difficult to cure they actually sell the car. Again the only way to cure this is to have the rotors turned on the car.
When fitting new rotors it is essential to be meticulous in cleaning the stub axles or rotor hubs from all dirt and rust or scale to make sure the rotor sits perfectly flush with the hub and equally important to check the runout of the rotor after install to make sure it is running true and that disc thickness variation which is the main cause of steering wheel shakes, does not occur at the industry standard 3000-4000 mile point which it always does.
To determine if the brake vibration is from the front or rear of the car there is an easy check. If you experience steering wheel shakes it is obviously the front rotors that are at issue. If the brake vibration can be felt through the brake pedal or the seat/bodywork of the vehicle then it is a rear brake rotor issue. Obviously you only need to solve the problem on the rotors that are causing brake vibration and NOT the other brakes on the vehicle or you could be back to square one with bed in times etc.
There are also other reasons for steering wheel shakes.
There is what is known as a SNUB BRAKE EFFECT which happens when brakes are applied sharply on a system equipped with a tall profile pad such as many European cars. These taller profile pads obviously see different rubbing speeds at the outer edge of the brake rotor compared to the inside and this exhibits itself as a steering wheel shake at speed. As the car slows down from such as 80-100 mph to 60 as traffic slows for example the shake starts but gradually stops as the speed decreases. Inspection would show no rotor runout or distortion at cold. This can only be solved by using a pad with a high thermal transfer coefficient such as EBC Redstuff or EBC yellowstuff, cheap pads often have very low thermal capabilities and EBC Brakes are extremely good at adding conductor elements and removing insulator elements that improve this condition.
If you have a brake vibration with an EBC product we will want answers please to visit our website for more information here!
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Motorcycle Racing
There are many forms of Motorcycle Racing around the world and this sport has grown considerably over the years and spread to all forms of motorcycle.
From Classic or Vintage Motorcycles to modern sportbikes and custom built superbikes and GP bikes the hobby of Motorcycle Racing continues to be a passionate and adrenaline generating area of the testosterone filled planet we live on.
One of the most important parts of any motorcycle are the brakes and people who choose Motorcycle Racing as their hobby have no hesitation in choosing the best brakes on the market, almost irrespective of cost to steal that extra yard advantage over almost similar machines when motorcycle racing.
EBC brakes offer several different brake compounds and the main choice is whether you are choosing to race motorcycles on an asphalt track or off road in Motocross use.
For ROAD RACING the clear choice is the latest EPFA Series sintered pads where full details can be seen on the link here.
For MOTO X the choice depends on style of motorcycle racing.
If you are racing in Enduro type events and want the coolest running brakes around then the EBC Carbon series X pads or TT pads as they are known in Europe may be the best choice.
If lifetime in mud and sand conditions is what you need go for the MXS series sintered pads as explained on this website.
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Replace Brake pads
Last modified on 2009-08-14 14:19:46 GMT. 0 comments. Top.
How to replace brake pads at home with safety, here is your guide to how to do this safely at home with minimal tools.
You must realise that brakes are a major safety part of your vehicle and they need to be installed with care following this suggested DVD install guidance and your vehicle manufacturer recommendations. If you have any doubts about doing this work consult a professional mechanic.
First view this taster DVD from EBC Brakes on how to replace brake pads. Click here!
To look up the correct parts for your car use this link in the USA – Click here!
Or use this link in Europe and Asia – Click here!
Then select the ideal compound for your driving style, information is right here on this link. Click here!
After you have chosen the ideal compound with which to replace brake pads, check the brake rotor condition as this will be essential to having good brakes once the new pads are installed. It is important that rotors are not severely scored or hollowed, EBC always recommend replacing or having your rotors turned by a local garage or machine shop, in the USA most pep Boys locations do this at minimal charge, click here to find your nearest Pep Boys…..
The brake pads must be carefully matched to the set you are removing to make sure you have selected the rights parts, never try to force brake pads into the calipers, never machine file or sand brake pads to make them fit. If they do not slip into the caliper aperture you may have the wrong parts and need to talk to your nearest Pep Boys location who will help you.
The need to replace brake pads is when they are worn to a level where the brake pads have only one eighth of an inch of friction material (lining) on them or as fitted to most European cars the dashboard brake warning light has come on. In many Asian designed cars there is a small spring device attached to the pad called a screech clip which emits a brake squeal when pads are worn. If you hear brake noise such as brake squeal it may be the time to replace brake pads as these have worn to a dangerous level.
We are confident that providing the work is done carefully and according to the above that you will be able to replace brake pads as a DIY home fit experience
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Racing Brake
Last modified on 2009-08-14 14:09:09 GMT. 0 comments. Top.
Racing Brakes are a vital component for every car and Motorcycle rider and it is safe to say every vehicle that enjoys racing brake pads are always upgraded for safety and to grab that extra yard from the opposition.
The design of a racing brake may be quite basic and often people choose to race a motor vehicle with standard fitment calipers and discs, all the more reason for choosing a great brake pad for racing such as EBC Bluestuff or EBC yellowstuff brake pads.
Usually a racing brake will employ an oversize brake rotor often with fully floating design where the outer rotor and inner hub are separated to allow for expansion and contraction of the components as they heat and cool to occur with distortion.
EBC make also slotted rotors which can form a very useful an inexpensive part of the racing brake set up for your car having the ability to draw cool air under the pad and rotor interface and bring brake temperatures down by hundreds of degrees. For more details of the EBC GD series slotted rotors click here
EBC Brakes manufacture 100% of their own brake pads in a state of the art facility in Bristol UK and employ two very qualified full time material development engineers who work in our own R and D lab equipped with 5 dyno test rigs.
In the Motorcycle World EBC brakes have been involved in racing brake development for 30 years and have pioneered great inventions such as the super light weight X disc brake rotors and the new latest and greatest EPFA Series sintered brake pads that will stop anything faster and last.
EBC Brakes also make the OS series and SM series oversize brake rotor kits for Off road Moto X use and for the fast evolving side by side market for ATV enthusiasts.
Whatever the needs in racing, EBC Brakes is here to help with a team of qualified and friendly team members, we would welcome feedback on our blogs and reviews pages from all users. Having sold over 30 million sets of brakes since start-up we believe EBC has earned its wings.
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EBC Automotive Brake Tech – brake calipers
Last modified on 2009-06-23 08:52:29 GMT. 0 comments. Top.
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Brake calipers are a vital part of your brake system. The brake caliper is what brings the disc brake pad into contact against your brake rotor and generates the stopping power of the vehicle. Seized calipers or seized sliding parts of the brake caliper will cause many problems including brake drag, brake overheat and hot spots on brake rotors, cracks in brake rotors and very commonly rotor ribbing or rotor galling which shows up as record style grooves or ribs on the rotor in a general pattern. See below: |
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Whilst fine ribbing of brake rotors is quite common and not in general a reason to replace the brake rotor the reason for the ribbing marks needs to be understood. Click here to read more about brake rotors and their quality aspects. Whilst it is not within the ability of most mechanics to strip and refurbish a brake caliper, certain service work can be carried on by competent technicians or by your dealer. Do NOT please attempt to rebuild brake calipers as this is a SAFETY ISSUE if you are not totally qualified to do this. Our following notes guide people in the basics of making sure your caliper is working properly. There are several types of automotive brake caliper. Most cars use a single piston sliding caliper which has a single large piston, on the inboard side of the caliper into which the hydraulic fluid enters. Through a slider mechanism the opposing half of the caliper is pulled towards the piston clamping the brake pads on to the brake rotor. These sliding calipers as they are know are prone to seizure due to corrosion in two areas. |
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Slider pins |
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Shown below are the slider pins that are part of the carrier and fit inside blind holes in the caliper body. It is essential that these slider pins and the holes into which they fit are free of all dirt rust and scale and are fully lubricated with a high temperature lithium soap base grease and that the bellows seals which enclose these pins fit snugly and are not split or perished whereby they might allow moisture into the slider bores. The bores need to be gently honed clean, the slider pins wire brushed and emery paper cleaned, greased and re assembled. |
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Slide Rails |
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It is most common in European cars that these slide rails become rusty and the free movement of pads cannot take place. On every brake pad change, clean these slide rails with a wire brush and apply a VERY THIN coating amount of high temperature grease on them, take care not to contact the brake pads with ANY greases or lubricant which can ruin the brake pads and can CAUSE TOTAL LOSS OF BRAKE in driving. |
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If the pads cannot slide freely on the slide rails because of this rust or scale, the outboard pad will not release staying in contact with the brake rotor after the brake is released , will cause overheating of the brake rotor, hot spots on the brake rotor, brake vibration and eventually brake pad surface scoring on that side of the brake pad and rotor . If your brake rotor looks like this in the picture below, it has to be turned or replaced and new pads fitted. The matching faces on the brake pad will show rib marks. |
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Again EBC Brakes wants to draw customer’s attention to the numerous advantages of slotted rotors or drilled and slotted rotors such as our GD series or USR series sport rotors which eliminate rotor ribbing, eliminate rotor scoring and rotor damage, help brake pads last longer and run cooler. |
